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January 30, 2004
the wave
Not so much a plank, maybe. Perhaps it’s about riding the wave. Hanging ten [or six], as Henry once told us, in the art college, in Liverpool, in the seventies; when he advocated taking up surfing, not so much as a pastime but as a way of life.
Catch the swell, he said, and ride in to the shore. But it’s hard to catch the wave, Henry, it’s not so much in your control. But thrilling none the less, I’ll give you that.
The plank, on the other hand, is where you walk yourself, alone. Making the marks that seem to matter. At first you don’t notice the footfalls, but then, as you leave the deck, they become more obvious. Until the din is almost unbearable.
it is the plank, however, that they first started surfing on; so maybe, just maybe, I'm on the right line here.
Posted by john at January 30, 2004 10:14 PM
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